This course is for students who are comfortable with their own painting process and who can benefit from personalized critique as well as the structure of studio sessions. Each class will begin with a group critique followed by time to paint and individual critiques. Participants are responsible for their own supplies. Bring to the first class your painting kit (oil or acrylic) and examples of recently completed work or work in progress.
TUITION: $300 + fees: $15
DURATION: 10 weeks
Diane Dahlke has been teaching painting through the MECA CS program since 2000. She has a BFA in painting from Syracuse University and an MFA from Vermont College. Her work has been shown nationally and she is currently represented in Portland by Casco Bay Artisans Gallery. Her website can be found at dianedahlke.com
During the first class we will discuss why an artist might choose to use oils or acrylics or a combination of oils over acrylics. You do not need to get both oil and acrylic materials.
Materials list for Oil Painting:
- A sketchpad or newsprint pad of approximately 11" x 14". This will be used for notes and for working out problems in black and white. Also bring a drawing pencil.
- A palette (disposable paper ones are fine) and a metal trowel type palette knife.
- Still life objects, photographs or your imagination to paint from to paint from.
- Rags and a lidded jar.
- A brush cleaning system or a small strainer that will fit in a second lidded jar. I've found that salsa jars fit perfectly with small strainers.
- A stretched canvas or canvas paper or gessoed panel. If you want to learn how to stretch a canvas bring two pairs of stretchers, canvas to cover the assembled stretchers (with at least a 2" margin all around), filled staple gun, white gesso and a wide hardware store brush.
- Linseed oil, Damar varnish and artists grade turpentine to combine for a medium. Liquin can also be used.
- An artist never seems to have enough brushes, but at a minimum, I would suggest getting a flat 1" wide and a flat 1/2" wide brush from the hardware store. From the art supply store, get oil-suitable brushes in flats #4, #8, #12 and rounds #2, #4, #10. I also like filbert (or fitch or cat's tongue) shaped brushes. If you don't know what brushes are best for oils, ask the art store employees. If you also use acrylics, your brushes will last longer and serve you better if you keep oil and acrylic brushes separate.
- Gamsol, odorless mineral spirits, or a citrus paint thinner are healthiest for cleaning brushes
- Because of the solvents used in oil painting, I strongly suggest wearing latex or a latex alternative pair of gloves.
- Oil paint: A large tube of Titanium or Permalba White. Smaller tubes of Ultramarine Blue, Phalo Blue (also spelled Thalo or Phthalo), Perm. Alizarin Crimson or Permanent Red or Quinacridone Red, Cadmium Red Medium, Hansa Yellow Light or Cadmium Lemon Yellow or Cad. Yellow Light, Permanent Green, Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Yellow Ochre and PayneÛªs Gray. Also nice to have are Cobalt Blue, Cerulean Blue, Titanium Buff, Naples Yellow, and any other colors that jump out at you.
Materials list for Acrylic Painting: We will go over materials in the first class, so if you have any questions, bring those along with the following:
- A sketchpad or newsprint paper pad of approximately 11" x 14". This will be used for notes and for working out problems in black and white.
- A drawing pencil.
- A palette ( disposable paper ones are fine) and a metal, trowel type palette knife.
- Some still life objects, your imagination or photographs to paint from.
- At least one lidded jar and several rags
- A stretched canvas or canvas board. If you want to learn how to stretch a canvas bring two pairs of stretchers, canvas to cover the stretchers (with at least a 2" margin all around), filled staple gun, white acrylic gesso and a wide, flat, hardware store brush to gesso with.
- Acrylic Mediums. These make the acrylics flow better and/or give body and transparency to the paint. I like Polymer Medium as an all around medium. Glazing mediums are helpful for adding transparency and fluidity. I prefer a gloss surface over a semi-gloss or matte, but this is a matter of personal preference.
- An artist never seems to have enough brushes, but at a minimum I would suggest going to the hardware store and getting a flat brush 1" wide and one 1 1/2" wide. From the art supply store get acrylic-suitable brushes in flats # 4, #8, #12, and rounds #2, #4, #10. I also like filbert (or fitch) shaped brushes. If you don't know which brushes are suitable for acrylics, ask the art store employees. I sometimes use oil brushes for acrylics as long as they are used only for acrylics.
- Paint can't go down MECA sinks. Paper towels will help clean off brushes and we'll discuss brush cleaning procedures in class.
- Acrylic paint. Golden is the best widely available brand. Liquitex is also good. Cheaper student grade paint can also be used. Get a large tube of Titanium White. In smaller tubes: Ultramarine blue, Phalo (also spelled Thalo or Phthalo) Blue, Quinacridone Red OR Napthol Red Med., Cadmium Red Light, Hansa Yellow Light, Chromium Oxide Green, Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Raw Umber,Yellow Ochre, and PayneÛªs Gray. Also nice to have are Cadmium Orange, Dioxazine Purple, Naples Yellow, Cobalt or Cerulean Blue and anything else that jumps out at you including interference and pearlescent colors.